India 13

Wednesday 5th

Spent most of the day getting to the airport at Cochin, checking in and then flying to Chennai and waiting for luggage, driving to hotel and getting our rooms sorted. Most of us only had overnight bags as the big luggage had gone on the bus ( took driver 12 hours!).Our guide who had been with us all through Tamil Nadu was ill ( turns out he has Typhoid) so we couldn’t do what was planned and instead went on a shopping trip using the hotel car. 

Thursday 6th

picked up a new guide, and went to the museum. Lots of very nice bronze statues from the Chola Period, 600 to 800 AD and also some stone statues. Lots of Mosquitos as well. The latter only seem to bother John and I! From there to Church of St Thomas, where his tomb is. the same St we heard about in Kerala. Apparently he made it here as well and preformed a couple of miracles before he was killed by a lance, bits of which are on display! Then we went to a nice shop with cafe, and had lunch, which we were ready for as it was about 3 o’clock. Back at the hotel John had a swim while I read for a while and then had a manicure and pedicure. My fingernails had got very long and the polish on my toes was about half way up the nail. Also my heels were very dirty from walking around all the temples without shoes. Shred arm the guide with Typhoid! Came to say goodbye, he is on large doses of antibiotics, but assures us that a) it is not contagious and b) it takes about a month to manifest. So we gathered in one room for drinks before dinner.

Friday 7th

This morning John went off exploring the fort, churches etc and I went with most of the others to do last minute shopping. bought som material to make blouse or dress ( or have made) and had lovely lunch and home again by 3. There are some great shops here for household stuff, curtains, dress fabrics, crockery etc and if one was setting up a house this would be a great place to come. Of course u would have to sort of like Indian Looking stuff. I found a lovely Kurta, but fortunately it was not in my size so had to leave it behind and save my $’s.

john away again on another excursion while I have been doing this. 

We leave tomorrow morning, we are the last ones to go and arrive in Nelson at about 5. on Sunday.

The end!.

image6.jpg

Elephant bath

India and elephants

Thought you might like to see some photos. Seems to take ages to work when I try to embed in a post so will try this way

India 12

Monday 3rd

this morning we drove for about 1.5 hours to see a PalmFibre Factory. It was interesting and we now all know where our front and back door coir mats come from, but a long way to go! they also made sisal and jute mates as well and the latest best seller is jute woven with wool. From there a drive to a beach resort for lunch. They turned on a special sea food meal so I was in heaven. Prawns ,calamari and fish.  We had had a similar meal at the birthday party last night. After a look at the resort shop we visited another coir place and watched then weave the mats – a more cottage industry affair.

Back into Cochin and a visit to the old Palace, once home to the sultans. Some nice wall paintings and interesting portraits of the sultans. Next door the synagogue, there are only 7 Jews left, most have immigrated to Israel. Apparently they came from Europe and Middle East as traders about the 1400s or before. The youngest is 44! Had a look around some of the shops in the area around the palace and synagogue, found an embroidery and lace shop The man says most of the lace for sale in Brugge or Venice is actually made in Kerala. Returned back to hotel for a swim. Had a lovely dinner at another hotel. We do seem to eat a lot! 

Tuesday 4th

up before 6 am and left hotel at 6.30 (6 of us) in a small mini bus to go and see a Temple celebration involving elephants. guide thought it started at 7.30. However like many things in India time is flexible and it is hard to get a straight answer. Anyway we drove for about 1 .30 and arrived in time to see a couple of elephants being down loaded from their trucks. they stepped down onto a step at the rear of the truck. One went forwards but the other backed off. Then we followed them to where they had their daily bath and scrub with coconut husk In a pool by the temple. about 9 they started to take the elephants 11 of them, into the temple and dress them with head gear, coloured ropes etc. This took quite a while as you can imagine. Then they started the ceremony, 3 elephants walked round to one side of the temple and amid drums and pipe thing they hoisted a big shield like image of Pavati onto the elephant who had been chosen as the best. Then the 3 walked around the temple and then stood back in line with the others who by this stage had parasols. Then music started and apparently it was like a contest between 2 sets of musicians. Some of us had headed back to the bus as we thought it we were leaving.

anyway about 11 we headed back to Cochin and after lunch John has gone for an explore and I am about to have a swim and a read or a swim and a sleep!!! 

India 11

Friday 28th

Left Spice Village Resort and travelled west to Kumararkom Lake Resort. I suggest you google it.

On the way we stopped at St Thomas Church. There is a bit doubt as to whether it is doubting Thomas  or Thomas of Canan. Anyway the are 16 th century Portuguese frescos hidden behind the an 18th century altar. Then on to a Keralar Temple where we could look at the murals by the gateway. Non Hindus not allowed into in re part. Later we got a flat tyre on the bus which took a little time to fix and because it was to be 1 st of month next day we bought some beer. Apparently this state has an alcohol problem and on the first of each month no one is allowed to buy or sell alcohol even hotels. You are also only allowed to keep a max of 5 bottles of beer in your house At any time. Eventually got to resort 5 star place each villa leads out to the pool which by the way is like a bath and not at all refreshing. Lovely food and the most comfortable beds and pillows on the whole trip. Overnight John got a mosquito bite under his eye which swelled up badly.

Saturday 1st 

Had a sort of free morning until 12 when we went on a house boat on the lake and along some little back canals. The locals have been reclaiming marsh land by building dykes and canals even before the Dutch arrived in 1600’s.

Everyone congregated in our room for pre dinner drinks. However, we still ended up with spare beer as most people drank G &T’s.

Sunday 2nd

Left Lake Resort and travelled to Cochin via a closed church ( under renovation) and an open one and another where Mass was being held so had to wait a little before we could look at the Portugese altar. 

Staying In another nice hotel right on the water front. Weather is hot and quite humid. Someone said it was mid 30s today. At 5.30 a few of us went on a sunset cruise around the harbour. They have a large container port, and lots of warehouses. We are in the older part of the city which is quite touristy but very pleasant. Watched sun set then got ready for dinner. Marian Paul, Chinese lady

Born in China but married English man. She was 80.

India 10

Think my numbering system maybe a little out. Also not sure if the whole of the last one was published. However it takes me so long that I am not going to repeat it.

Tuesday 25th

first went to a temple to Ganesha. He is the elephant headed god, his father chopped his head off when he was guarding his mother and so to make things ok he (the father) told someone to bring him a head of the first thing they found and it happened to be an elephant, so Ganesha ended up with its head. he is strong and wise! In this temple he is shown with his trunk to the right when usually it is to the left and the reason is that he is offering flowers to ? and you have to offer with your right hand so he is taking flowers from left hand and putting in right.

we are on the way to Maduri, stopped to see a vast granite quarry. Not working because for some reason it is under investigation – ( since 2012) so lots of people out of jobs. After lunch we went to another temple where Shiva and Pavati were married ( there are apparently several places where this happened)  anyway this temple had 13 huge Gopora or entrance gates and covered about 25 acres! There are 2 golden domed temples the largest to Pavarti ( the wife). Non Hindus not allowed into the inner temples but can see from outside. 

we had the biggest room in the hotel so we invited people in for drinks before dinner.

at 8.30 6 of us headed back to the temple to see the “going to bed ceremony” which happens every night. Both images come out and say good night to their 2 sons (1 is Ganesha) and then spend the night together in Parvatis temple. This is all accompanied by lots of drums, bells and incense. Towards the end I had an attack of stomach pains and was very relieved when it all finished And could race back to hotel in TukTuk and be sick etc etc! 

Spent a rather disturbed night up and down to the loo! However the next morning I felt fine but not willing to eat anything.

Wed 26th

drove to Thekaddy Spice Village Resort. ( we are travelling West over the Deccan Plateau).On the way we saw a procession of women that turned out to be the celebration for a 13 year olds ear piercing and when she gets her first piece of gold.

when we arrived at Resort the others went off to a tea plantation while I decided to take it easy and try and have a sleep. Felt as good as new by the time the came back And even went to a martial arts performance that evening. The Resort do set amongst lots of trees which are all named. Next morning we went to a spice garden and learnt about the spices grown here and the uses in Ayurvedic medicine.this area is the home of pepper and cardamon. However, we saw lots of other spices and learnt heaps. Cardamom grows from the aerial foods of a bush that looks like thick grass, all spice is made from leaves of 1 trees but incorporated 5 flavours, cloves are the flowers from a tree, turmeric grows like ginger, nut meg grows on a tree and mace is the inner coating around the nutmeg. Also saw 3 kinds of coffee plants. After lunch and a swim we went on a boat in the Tiger Reserve. Peripyal lake. No tigers but 5 elephants, lots of deer, antelope and Indian Bison and of course birds.

back at hotel attended a cooking show and then dinner.

The red stuff is Mace which is around nutmeg. The outer casing and flesh has already been removed.

India 9

Really cant remember where I was up to. Have had trouble getting reliable internet lately. 

Thursday 20th was a free day, john and I went back to antique place and bought a chest which we are having shipped home. We have filled it ( well not completely) with stuff we have bought. Couldn’t ship the small bronze cow and calf I bought as it is very complicated for him to fill in forms etc for bronzes. So have to carry that.

actually think I have written about this and the out fit I bought later in the day. We also went to the beach, nice sandy beach but rough water so just a paddle.

Friday 21st

after leaving hotel we stopped to watch them make coir rope ( coconut fibre rope) they sort of do it like a twisted cord. Also stopped to watch them weed paddi. Visited an old temple and watched a ceremony. Lots of bell ringing but not much action.

then onto another couple of oldl temples 600bc type thing. Ended up at Swami Mali resort.

sat 22 (Becs Birthday)

drove to Thonjur visiting a temple and bronze casting factory on the way. John 

India 6

Thought I would try to get right up to date as we have a free day here in Pondicherry. Yesterday we slept in until 8.30 the wake up call didn’t happen! So bit of a rush to get ready, have breakfast by 9am.

luckily the first place was just across the road at a convent run by Cluny Order, who teach embroidery to widows and other disadvantaged women!  The work is very good, Some lovely elephants on towels and I bought 3 service totes with Ganesh on the corner and they can have 3 more done by this evening (in broken white) to make a set of 6. Ganesh is a Hindu God who has the head of an elephant, and is the son of Shiva and Pavati. The story is very complicated but he is known for being wise and strong. When I had my fortune told by green parrot picking out the card, Ganesh was the God he picked for me. Hindu stories are really interesting, complicated but also at times very funny. There has been a lot of stuff in the Hindu Times English paper about the banning or rather withdrawal of Wendy Donigers book on Hinduism.

into the bus to Sri Aurobino Ashram. No cameras no cell phones, no talking. Lovely flower arrangements. Then to view the outside of State Governors Residence and Ayi Mandapam. The latter a monument given by Napoleon 3rd to city. Ayi was a local madam who the king was about to behead but she petioles him and said she would use her money to build some sort of water works near city. Later the French used these water works to defeat British troops.

We then went by bus to Auroville community which is outside the city. A sort of new age place founded in 1960’s by Aurobindo a great philosopher and writer along with a woman called “the Mother”. nice lunch place and a few boutique shops. The main attraction is the meditation centre which visitors can only see from viewing place. A huge sphere covered in gold plated discs. Inside is a Chrystal ball that follows the sun or something. Lovely parklike grounds and amphitheatre but think they really should have used the money to build a school or hospital! 

After returning to the city we went out to look at some shops, found a nice antique/curio shop which had some really interesting stuff, pillars made of teak or rose wood, chests, 1930 portable cocktail cabinets etc. 

think that’s just about it apart from having a lovely dinner at a place just around the corner – run by Indian woman and her Italian husband. Think we will go there for lunch today. This morning we have been back to the aforementioned shop and bought a small chest and arranged to have it shipped home. Johns has just taken some of our purchases over to have them included in the shipping so that our cases will be a little lighter. Unfortunately the bronze I bought a few days ago is to complicated to have shipped so will have to carry it with us. Now up to date!

India 5?

Not sure if I told you about the dying place we went to on Thursday. we all had a go at block printing on paper. John and I went for a rather ambitious 3 colours each but we managed quite well. Not sure John will give up his day job! We also got to dye our own scarves. Using vegetable dyes Either marigold or indigo. Results not too bad.

friday14th

Started with the Residency – built by James Kirkpatrick in 1700s, he was a representative of the East I dis. Co who went “native” and outraged the British community by converting to Islam and marrying an Indian Muslim and keeping a harem. Huge house with ball room and audience rooms. It is all in a rather dilapidated state but must have been glorious in its day. Now only occupied by pigeons. The grounds now house a girls university. 

Most of us then went to Golconda Fort begun in 600s and added to over several hundred years. The most amazing acoustics. A clap at the bottom of the hill can be heard at the top. Only overrun because of a traitor.

After lunch we trooped along to a pearl shop and as it was Valentines day we bought me some pearls.

From there we went to Shaminar Bazaar. This is a large bazaar surrounding a monument built to plague victims. They say you can buy anything from a pin to piano here. I managed to add a hat to my collection. We also came across some sort of Muslim parade, not sure what it was for but lots of ponies, young boys riding camels, drums, green banners and men in robes and women ( at the end) in black burquas. John got pulled into the middle of the whole thing and came back full of it all. The rest if us got to view it from footpath as it went past.

That night we had a lovely dinner on the lake side with 4 of us wearing pearls.

This country is amazing. the filth and garbage and noise is overwhelming at times but the temples, people, colour and buildings are fantastic.

Saturday 15th

In the morning we visited the museum which we had seen 2 years ago, it is really one of the Nizams of Hyderabads collection. He even had a huge collection of walking sticks, some of which had moving parts. Lots of bronze statues and I managed to start understanding the different styles by tagging along with Di McKinnon.

From there to the Chowmallah Palace built by the Nazims ( rulers of this area and at times the wealthiest area if India) I think at the time of partition the Nazims of Hyderabad was the wealthiest person in the world by a country mile. This is the area where the Koh in Noor and Hope Diamonds were found. Later that day we went to the railway station and boarded the overnight train for Kalahasthi. Had a box dinner and only 4 to a carriage. Beds extremely hard but clean and not too noisy.

disembarked at about 7 am and bused to a hotel for breakfast. After that we went to a temple which was really fantastic, lots of people, colour and noise. Got to have the ash and vermillion dot put on our foreheads and pretend to drink the holy water and then out it in our hair. The water is scented with cinnamon so smelt a bit like mulled wine that day. Unfortunately no cameras allowed inside.

after lunch we went to another weaving warehouse. John was feeling much better but I had caught his cold by now.

Monday and Tuesday were more weaving villages and temples. Again they are a bit blurred in my mind as I was not feeling great so didnt get round to writing much about them. Can say that some of the silk shares are beautiful but also very expensive.

Thursday 18th

 we visited 2 large temples. One to Shiva and 1 to Vishnu. In the latter it was possible to see Portuguese influence. The early rulers of the area made the Portuguese only sell horses to them not to the Muslims so there are horses carved in the pillars of the temples. Usually one solid block of granite and they were carved from the top down. We also visited a small museum/ house, lots of domestic ware as well as old shares and jewellery then after lunch a longish bus ride to Pondicherry, which was one of the French colonial areas in India and only handed back to India in 1957. Still lot of French influence to be seen, French Gendarm uniforms, french street names and southern france houses. Staying Ina hotel owned by Neemrama group who specialise in doing up old buildings – this one is 18th century hiuse, fairly quirky but very comfortable. Oops see photo in wrong place but at least it is there. Must go to bed. We have a free day tomorrow so will have time to have a good look around. More humid here so heat is more noticeable.